筲箕灣的奇妙廟宇群 – 皇母娘娘廟&張飛廟 temple clusters in shau kei wan – heavenly empress temple & cheung fei temple

不時會到筲箕灣,主因喜歡的海防博物館;或想走一段長路,由避風塘海濱走到太古城,途中有時折去電影資料館。

一月底,週六,去過海防博物館,嘗試新的路線離開,結果有驚喜。認識了兩家之前不曉得的廟宇。

shau kei wan is one of the districts i visit quite regularly; most of the time because of the museum of coastal defense and the promenade that allows me to stroll all the way to taikoo shing, sometimes en route to hong kong film archive.

my last trip to the district, in the end of january, however was a new experience. it was a discovery of two temple clusters. skw is an old district and rich in human interest and old local custom and culture and i’ve visited some of its historic monuments including some old temples. but i only came to know these new two from this trip.

從海防博物館經東區走廊底下過馬路,便是亞公岩村,沿亞公岩村道走不遠,右面紅紅的,搭建高臺上,就是皇母娘娘廟。

紅彤彤的建築,有木有鐵皮,屬民間供奉規模。有趣的是往廟門的樓梯口,張貼紅紙,寫著觀音娘娘、五雷先師、大聖佛祖、城隍老爺。顯然這裡同地供奉幾尊神靈。

當刻沒心奘載,沒有走進去多看,經過便算了。

the first temple cluster is on a kung ngam village road. easy to spot. it is all vermilion on a little platform in the middle of the road. more like a common altar as the structure is a bit rough, compare to the usual elaborate buildings of traditional temple. the main goddess worshipped here is wong-mo-neong-neong (in cantonese) who is the heavenly empress in chinese folklore.

there are however more than one god and goddess under one roof. as the sign shows, people can also pay their respect to goddess of mercy, the five thunder gods, great sage of the buddha and shing wong lord.

heavenly empress temple

回到東大街,經過天后廟、街市,走過工廠街,上行人天橋。原本只想從高空瞧瞧電車穿駛及過年前大街的熱鬧。往右下望,兩邊老齡洋樓,中間電車遊過,有趣滿足。誰知,回頭向左前看,突然發現一座威武的小廟坐鎮山坡上。紅旗飛揚,掩揚間看到張飛廟的大字和澄黃老虎。

i did not enter the first temple cluster and probably should pay another visit to understand more. the second cluster however immediately pulled me to it. the site and setting of the temple is fascinating, least to mention the novelty. i haven’t heard of a temple of cheung fei before. he was a highly respected general during the three kingdoms period but he certainly is not a god.

hill

this temple cluster is not marked on google map, not difficult to find though. if you see shau kei wan jockey club clinic, you can then spot a temple right above just look at its back up on the hill. the old aldrich village was built there. you can still find a big notice board of the village near the beginning of the staircase.

aldrich v

an easy and tidy staircase from the bottom of the hill leads us to the temple cluster. this stairway is in front of a red big board with the name of the six temples written on it. clearly, those are what you can expect up on the hill. the question is how these gods are settling in. it seems not a big space up on the hill.

red board

順著天橋回到地面,前面一個紅色牌匾,廟的名字:福德、洪聖、觀音、關帝、張飛、劉備,一字排開。看到這個陣勢,好奇的心按捺不住。馬上走到前面一道樓梯,準備拾級而上。

這山坡是從前愛秩序村的原址。

上行一瞬,石坡上大樹下,正氣的標示,南安坊坊眾會 1943年立。幾個廟的名字向我招手,疑惑更濃,小小山坡建築,如何容納一二三四五六尊神祇?沿石級上爬,草木密茂,但隱見旁邊坡上不少平臺,應該是從前村民所居所用之地。樓梯乾淨俐落,猜想坡上廟宇該有人用心打理。

DSCN0176

aldrich v

not long after climbing the staircase, a big metal board will greet you. the names of the temples again. it also states the board was put up by the nam on fong resident association in 1943.

到達目的地。仰視廟前牌坊,簇新光潔。前面寫著人傑地靈,背面怡人仙境。站在大門,處於高點張望四周,八字所言不虛。

archway

on top of the stairway, there are an archway and two stone lions. that is the main entrance. the four characters up there say good place produces outstanding people. indeed, the scenery and green say it all.

行歸正傳,馬上端量各家廟壇。先有大關刀、赤兔馬鎮守庭前的關帝廟。連在旁邊是觀音廟。往右稍移腳步,不遠前方微高臺坡上,左有平房,右有兩聯廟宇,建築比關帝和觀音廟較老舊。平房是南安坊坊眾會會址,旁邊便是福德祠和洪聖廟。

kwan di guan yin

right at the front is kwan tai temple. kwan tai’s mightly horse and weapon stay guard. the goddess of mercy temple is right next to kwan tai temple. further in another twin temples that seem older are at the right end of the open ground. they are fook tak che and hung shing temple. the shed on their right is where the nam on resident association office is at. this square seems to be the oldest at this hill-top area. a bronze incense pot in front of hung shing temple has a time stamp of third year of kuang-hsu (emperor), meaning it was made around 1878.

three

incense pot

關帝和觀音廟旁有樓梯,梯前已受張飛廟圍欄綁著彩色旗陣吸引。威猛的老虎,整齊戴著紅印,有柚子供奉,守衛張飛廟。看得出這是廟群中的主角。

cheung fei temple

there is another stairway at the left of the archway. cheung fei miao (temple) is up there. colourful flags are hoisted around the temple. that is because it just celebrated its anniversary a week back. unusually this temple is guarded by tigers and not lions. apparently cheung fei was an outstanding general and tigers are considered fiercer than lions and match the status of a martial immortal.

lau bei temple

這廟群有趣的地方,是一廟還有一廟高。劉備廟得再攀十數樓梯。

then right above cheung fei temple is lau bai temple. another stairway leads us to the very top of this hill.

shau kei wan high point

無心插柳,在地考察。回來後,認真搜集資料。零落地找到些個人網頁及大公網陳天權先生的專欄。

皇母娘娘廟似是民間私人打理,只知二十世紀中開始存在。

張飛廟群則有較多資料。原因在我訪廟前正正一星期農曆十二月十九(2014.1.19)廟慶祝張飛誕(指開光日)。從《壹週刊》網上短片所看,街坊熱鬧參與慶節,典禮甚具規模。據短片所述,廟由鄭興在1982年建成,及後他再建劉備廟。

令我疑惑的是村坡上紅色牌匾,明明列明六間廟宇的名字,筲箕灣南安坊坊眾會一九四三年立。希望有機會繼續考究。

one note to make, lau bai (liu bei in mandarin), kwan ti (guan yu/guan yunxian) and cheung fei (zhang fei), the three heroes of three kingdoms, are true and remarkable historic personalities. chinese literature master “romance of the three kingdoms” successfully portray a strong brotherhood bond among the three. this temple cluster seems to be a good attempt to materialize these values by setting up altars of the three ‘brothers’ in one place.

參考 reference:

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